Guides
STOCK INFORMATION
Stock Update
Due to the virus and fires around California we find ourselves in a position that none of us thought would ever happen. As a result we now are having major stock issue.
The supply chain in USA has been greatly compromised , the metal work and board factories have been closed or working at reduced capacity for quite a while and Schiit Audio despite their greatest efforts are not able to keep up with manufacturing.
I wish we had better news and could offer more details regarding delivery dates, please check our website for more great products at www.electromod.co.uk
When Will You Get Stock
Honestly we have no idea we are doing our best to coordinate with the USA.
How Can I Know When Something Is Coming
We will be putting alerts on our Facebook page once we have any information.
Can I Buy Directly From The USA
Yes you can buy directly but please remember that all imports cost etc would be due and also the warranty would be with the USA and not with us.
GETTING CONNECTED
Connecting to a computer
Okay, so you're new to this whole game. You don't know an LOD from a 30-pin, or what a USB A-B cable is. Where the heck do you start? Well, here's a brief guide to how to connect our stuff to some common sources and systems, together with some links to cables you might need.
Connecting to a Computer
Analog: You can connect a headphone amp to your computer via the headphone or line-out jack. Most computers have a 3.5mm stereo jack, and our gear uses RCA inputs, So you'll need a cable like this one:
3.5mm Male Jack Plug to Dual RCA Cable
Digital: You can connect our DACs to Windows, Mac, many Linux computers, and some Chromebooks via USB, optical, or coaxial digital output, depending on what the computer has. USB is the most universal. To use USB, you'll need a USB A-B cable, like our USB cable.
Most Apple computers also have optical digital output via the headphone jack. To use it, you'll need a cable like this:
3.5mm to Standard Toslink Cable
Connecting to an iPod/iPhone/iPad
Analog: You can connect a headphone amp via the headphone jack. iPhones and iPods use a 3.5mm stereo jack, and our gear uses RCA inputs, so you'll need a cable like this one:
3.5mm to Dual RCA Cable
Digital: If you have an older iPhone, iPod, or iPad with the 30-pin connector (the 1" wide one, not the new Lightning connector), you can connect to our optical-input DACs with a digital out dock.
30-Pin connector and iPad: If you have an iPad with the 30-pin connector, you can connect via USB with the Apple 30-pin Camera Connection Kit, together with a powered hub (Schiit Wyrd) to avoid the "this device draws too much power" error. You'll also need a USB cable.
Lightning connector: if you have an iPhone running iOS7 or iPad running iOS6 or iOS7 with the new Lightning connector, you can use the Lightning to USB Adapter from Apple, together with a powered hub (Schiit Wyrd) to avoid the "this device draws too much power" error. You'll also need a USB cable.
Connecting to an Android Phone or Tablet
Analog: You can connect a headphone amp via the headphone jack. iPads use a 3.5mm stereo jack, and our gear uses RCA inputs, So you'll need a cable like this one:
3.5mm to Dual RCA Cable
Digital: You can connect our DACs to many Android devices (5.0 and up) using a USB On The Go cable. Some Android devices will need to be connected through a USB powered hub, since they cannot supply enough power to run the DAC.
Mirco Cable USB - USB
USB A-B Cable
Powered Hub (for some systems, Schiit Wyrd)
Connecting a DAC to an Amp, Preamp, AV Preamp, or Receiver
Most equipment uses RCA cables. You'll need a stereo pair of RCA cables—we sell really short ones (PYST) for connecting our own gear together when it's stacked—or you can buy all kinds of lengths.
Connecting a Preamp to a Headphone Amp
Many preamps still have what they call a "tape out," which bypasses the internal volume control of the preamp. This is where you'd want to connect a headphone amp. All you need is a pair of RCA cables.
If your preamp does not have a clearly labeled "tape out," contact the manufacturer and ask them if they have an output that bypasses the volume control.
Connecting a Receiver or AV Preamp to a Headphone Amp
Many receivers and AV preamps have what they call a "stereo mix" output. This is where you'd connect a headphone amp, with RCA cables.
If your receiver or AV preamp does not have a clearly labeled stereo output, contact the manufacturer for their recommendation as to where to connect a headphone amp.
Connecting to More Than One Device
Let's say you have one of our DACs and you want to connect it to both your headphone amp and a set of powered speakers on your desk (or any other group of two different products, like a headphone amp and a receiver, etc. To do this, you'll need what we call a set of RCA Y-Cables.
CHOOSING AN AMP
Magni 3/ Magni Heresy
When we say "this may be the only headphone amp you ever need," we really mean it. Magni 3 and Heresy will drive almost any headphone out there, including hard-to-drive planar magnetic headphones, and provide a gain switch for sensitive headphones, including IEMs.
Choose Magni 3 / Heresy for:
Most bang for the buck
Most headphones, from IEMs to planars
A complete desktop system with Magni 3 preamp outputs
Vali 2
Want to get a taste of great tube sound, without the wallet-exploding price? Vali's for you. It's a very serious tube amp! It's a great choice for most full-size headphones, but it's too noisy with IEMs. It also has plenty of power for even some planar dynamic models and 300 and 600 ohm cans.
Choose Vali for:
Great tube sound, at a very low cost
Most over-ear, full-size headphones
Asgard 3
This is a pretty big step up from the Magni in terms of performance and functionality. Variable preamp outs so you can connect it to a set of desktop powered monitors, or a speaker amp.
Choose Asgard 3 for:
Exceptional resolution and performance
A complete desktop control center
Most headphones, from sensitive IEMs to planars
Valhalla 2
Now we get into tubes, and the old arguments about whether tubes sound better or not. We don't get into those arguments. We will say that tubes sound different. Some people like tubes, and some people don't. Valhalla 2 is a great tube amp that works very well with a wide range of headphones.
Choose Valhalla for:
Exceptionally accurate tube sound
A complete desktop control center
High-impedance and low-impedance, high-sensitivity headphones
Lyr 3
With it's very high power output thanks to a hybrid design. Lyr 3 gives you more power than virtually any headphone needs, and is quite versatile for a wide variety of headphones.
Choose to run 100% solid-state, or "roll" tubes to your preference.
Choose Lyr for:
Exceptional power and headroom
A complete desktop control center
A wide range of headphones, including very hard to drive orthodynamics
Mjolnir 2
Mjolnir 2 is an end-game amplifier, offering end-game tube and solid-state performance, as well as both balanced and single-ended input and output. Choose to run 100% solid-state, or "roll" tubes to your preference. Use both single-ended and balanced headphones. It's your choice!
Choose Mjolnir for:
Unsurpassed flexibility
Exceptional power, dynamics, detail, and resolution
An end-game headphone/powered monitor system
Ragnarok 2
Ragnarok is a do-all integrated amp for headphones and speakers, providing the ultimate end-game performance for both. Compare to any amp on the market, at any price. With 5 inputs, balanced and single-ended headphone outputs, balanced and single-ended preamp outputs, and speaker terminals, it's one amp that is suitable for pretty much anything.
Choose Ragnarok for:
Ultimate detail, resolution, and accuracy
Ultimate power and headroom for headphones and for many speakers
Balanced and single-ended headphones and speakers
CHOOSING A DAC
Modi 3
Plug Modi 3 into virtually any computer (PC, Mac, some Linux machines, some Chromebooks, iPods, iPhones, etc) to instantly improve the audio output quality no drivers needed. There's also the three-inputs available for other digital inputs.
Most bang for the buck
Easy setup and great flexibility
Loki
Loki is a standalone Eq and because we live in an imperfect world, and because individuals have individual preferences. Nobody can say their speakers or headphones are ruler-flat. Nobody can say that all of their recordings are audiophile-quality. Loki provides a way to adjust for imperfect systems and imperfect recordings.
Bi Frost 2
Where Modi is about bang for the buck, Bifrost is a complete platform an upgradable platform that you can use for many, many years in the future. Maybe decades. Because Bifrost is modular, we can change out the USB input card and the DAC/Analog card. So, when technology changes, Bifrost will change with it. No other DAC at this price point offers true upgradability like Bifrost.
Choose Bifrost for:
Exceptional performance
Multiple inputs: optical, coaxial, and optional USB
Assurance of upgradability in the future
Gungnir and Gungnir Multibit
Available in both Gungnir Multibit and standard Gungnir configurations. Gungnir Multibit offers the same digital filter and similar DACs as Yggdrasil, while both models have Adapticlock regeneration, the most sophisticated clock regeneration scheme in the industry.
Choose Gungnir for:
Excellent performance in both balanced and single-ended systems
Multiple inputs: optical, coaxial, BNC, and optional USB
Assurance of upgradability in the future
Yggdrasil
Yggdrasil is a complete re-thinking of what an "end game" DAC should be. As a true multi-bit DAC with a unique digital filter algorithm using D/A converters not used in any other product, it is truly like nothing else out there. It is designed to provide optimal performance for the vast majority of music you already own, without the need for repurchasing everything in exotic formats. Like all of our DACs, Yggdrasil is completely modular and upgradable to meet future needs.
Choose Yggdrasil for:
Ultimate performance in both balanced and single-ended systems
Multiple inputs: USB, AES/EBU, optical, coaxial, and BNC
Assurance of upgradability in the future